Cutting device for forming ornamented breast heel flaps



Aug; 28, 1945. L, SABQ 2,383,515

cumme bEvIcE FOR FORMING ORNAMENTED BREAST HEEL FLAPS Filed Dec. 7.,1944 2 sh ets sheet 1 INVENTOR.

A 7' TORNEX L. SABO summer bEvIcE FOR FORMING ORNAMENTED BREAST HEEL FLAPS Filed Dec. 7, 1944- 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. 1 00/5 .5450- ATTO/e y.

Patented Aug. 28, 1945 UNITED A N b CUTTING D vioE FOR FORMING ORNA- \MENTED BREAST HEEL FLAPS 1 Louis Sabol'Ast'ojria, N. Y., assignor to Herman B.

Delrna'n, New York, N. Y.

- Application December 7, 1944, Serial No. 567,053

' Claims. (01:12-17) The present invention relates to the art of shoe making, this application being a continuationin part of my application, Serial No. 436,655,, file March 28, 1942. I

0ne of the principal objects of my invention is to provide means for decorating womens shoes at alow cost. i

A further object. of my invention isttoprovide means permitting the operation of trimming a heel breast flap and attaching it to a heel of a shoe, to be performed by an unskilled person and. still have the finishedshoe appear accurately made. 1

A further object orating the breast flap of-a shoe which-is formed integral with the sole to produce'an ornamental effect. i

Another object is to provide means for-making a decorative shoe without additional operations and hence withoutadditional cost. I 4

Another object istoprovide a cuttingdevice by the operation ofwhichthe breast flap of the heel may be shaped and simultaneously decorated in a single operation. l Y =v Further objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the-followingspecification and claims.

In making: shoes for women, heels are used which difier in length, width anclformof the breast, and it has been the general practice to 'make the flap for the breast of the heels .of greater width than the breast, ,and after the flap has been cemented -'to the breast, to. trim the laterally extendingportions with a knife by; manual operation. This requires time and also requires considerable skill to prevent cutting the heel in the act of removing the trim. Another method for trimming the breast flap of the heel is also in use, bywhich the breast flap, which has been made larger than the breast of the heel is first held, against thebreast of the heel, and apencil is used to'outline the cuts to be made. Thereafter the flap is bentback and trimmed with a suitable tool.

The object of the aforementioned methods of the prior art has invariably been to, form. a flap for the breast of a heel adapted to coverthe entire breast portion of the heel to provide aneven surface appearing on the breast. 1 l r The objects of my present invention, as set out above, differ widely from the prior art. Iintentionally leave a portion of the breast of the heel uncovered by the flap, thus providing aspace, or a plurality of spaces, for revealing the covering of the heel on the breast side. .Furthermore,

I provide the contour of the breast flap an ornamental outline to stress the contrast between the color and material of the heel covering material which may, for example, be leather; silk isto provide means for decor the like, and the color and material of the flap placed thereon.

Since the breast portion of the heelis visible when the wearer is seated, especially when the legs of the wearer are crossed, or may be visible, and therefore appeal to the purchaser when the shoe is on display in the store, the decorated breast flap produced in accordance with themesent invention substantially enhances the appearance and value of the shoe. In addition to the decorative contour, the flap is preferably provided with an embossed or cut out ornamentation in its central or body portion, i. e, in the portion between the edges.

With the above and other objectsof-the invention in view, the invention consists in the novel construction, arrangement and combination of various devices, elements and parts. as set forth in the claims hereof, certain embodiments of the same being illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings and described in the specification. i

In the drawings, V Fig. 1 is a side elevational view, partly in section, of a machine'for carrying out myinvention, showing a shoe resting in supported and adjusted position with relation to a housin and a flap forming cutting device readyfor the forming operation.-

Fig. 2 is a sectional View of the cutting device on an enlarged scale.

Fig. 3 is a bottom view of the under side of the upper member of the cutting device, as viewe on the line 3-3 in Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation showing the breast of a heel and a decorated flap attached thereto, the heel being shown in inverted position. 4

Fig. 5 is a horizontal cross section through the heel, taken along the line 5.5 in Fig.4.

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but shows a cutting device for producing a different ornamental contour. I

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 4, but illustrating the breast flap produced by the cutting device of Fig. 6. l

Fig. 8 is. a view similar to Fig,- -2, but showing another embodiment of the cutting device.

Fig. 9 is a bottom view of the upper member of the cutting device, as viewed from the line 99 in Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is aview similar to 4, but showing the heel breast flap produced by the cutting device of Figs. 8 and 9.

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. ing a difierent ornamental design.

In carrying my invention into effect, I provide a machine as illustrated in Fig. 1 to support a shoe, which may or may not have. its heel attached infinalpositiomin a manner which permits the cutting device-to trim 'the heel breast flap. The machine provides that the cutter operates on the rough side of the leather of the flap, as shown in Fig. 1. I

The shoe is held resiliently in predetermined position and is supported by a carriage, I, which is slidable in a housing 2 and .hasanadjustable cup portion 3 for receiving the toe portionro'fthe shoe, and an adjustable pintle 4 which fits into the usual hole provided in the last li. The s1ide-I is movable to a forward or loading position, .in which the shoe is placed on or removed from the slide, and to a rearward or operating position in which the shoe is supported'in proper position to be operated on by the machine.

The shoe I0, shownin positiont'o be operated on by the machine, hasa heel 12 which is attached thereto in its final position. -'A heel breast flap I3 integral with the outso'le-of the shoe is turned backwards to lie with its smooth face 'on top of a plate I4 supportedby theframeor housing 2. A movable cutter I5 is connected with relation to said machine above-said 'plate t4, being carried, for example,'by a press =head II and is coactive with the plate -I'4 totr'im the "heel'breast flap I3 of the shoe. The-heel I'2 may alternatively be attached to the shoe after the trimmingoperation of the breast flap has been performed.

The heel I-2 of the shoe is covered with-a co ering material I6 (Fig. 5) 'usually consisting'of leather, silk, or the like-covering the hee'l on its 10, but showrear and side portions, and at least partially on l the breast portion, being shown in the formof narrow strips extending in 'a contour substantially parallel to the edges formed between the breast and the side portions of :the heel. A tap I I on top of said heel is=shaped similar to the heel but protruding for a small portion on the breast side thereof. In accordance with my invention, the flapis first shaped by the cutting device and then placed on thebreast of the'heel and cemented thereon, providing a flush surface with the protruding portion of the tap H. The

contour of the flap I 3 conforms length-wise to the length of the heel when attached thereto, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 4. However, the lateral edges I8 of the flap do not-conform with the contour of the heeljbeing cutin-such manner as to provide space between the edges of the flap and the corners or edges of the breast of the heel, so that portions of the covering material IS on the breast of the heel are visible. The width of the breast flap I3 is greater than the distance between the inner contours or edges of-the-covering material I6, so that the portion of the heel not covered by the material I6 is'entirely covered by the flap I3.

It will be seen that in the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, the entire width of the flap I3 is less than the width of the breast of the heel. This embodiment is preferably used to facilitate the cementingof the breast flap to the .heel, since the lesser Width of the flap in comparison with the breast of the heel permits inaccuracy in positioning the flap on the heel without it being visible to an observer. This makes it possible to use unskilled labor for these operations, whereas heretofore when the flap covered the entire breast of the heel, great care had to be exercised in cementing the preformed flap to the heel, and skilled or semi-skilled labor had to be employed to perform the operation satisfactorily. In addition to producing an ornamental effect by the contrast of the material of the breast flap with the material iofthe heel covering, Iii-showing on the breast of the heel, theshoe structure produced by the present invention has the further advantage that slight aberrations from the common center of the breast and the flap will not be noticeable to anobserver, and hence does not result in 'adefect in-the shoe.

ThCCHttiHg'dCViCQ, in accordance with my inmention, :for trimming and simultaneously ornamenting the heel breast flap of a shoe, is shown in reater detail, in Figs. 2 and 3, and comprises aplate 22 which may be integral with or connected to the plate I4, and the cutter I5 coacting therewith, having acutting edge'Zl o'f a contour and shape corresponding to the desired contour tobe imparted'to the heel breast flap. In addition to the ornamental effect producedby decorating the contour of the flap, an embossed ornamentation may be imparted to the'flap, for example by means of a boss 25 conforming'to the shape :o'f the ornamentation desiredfor-theembossing, and a recess26 in the plate 22 also conforming in shape, but of "slightly-greater size, to provide space for theleather between said boss and said recess andto impede a-stamping action into the leather of the flap by the boss 25.

' The embossed design "formed in the body portion of the breast fiap'by the coaction of the-boss 25 and recess'lfi'is indicated'at ZIinFigsA and 5. The decorative effect produced by the ornamental contour of the-heel brea'st'flap and the con'trast between the color, texture or appearance-of the material of the breast flap with the coverlng material of the heel, appearing on thebreas'tportion,

issupplemented andheightened by the embossed design in thebody portion of the flap. Instead'o'f being a raised design as shown in' Figs-'4 and 5, the embossed ornamentation'may be an iritaglio design or a design composed of both raised and depressed portions. I

Certain of the advantages of the inventionhave already been referred to. It=may-be useful,how ever, to call particular attention at this point to the 'factthat the decorations may be imparted to the breast fiap of the heel without'a'dditional operation but during the cutting operation to trim the flap. A'further advantage is an increase in the production of shoe making, by using the'flaps described, as less care has to be exercised for correctly placing the'flap on the heel and-cementing it thereto than was necessary heretoforesince no accurate placing is; required. Heretofore an inaccurate'placing of the flap conforming to the contour of the breast was immediately noticeable, whereas the use of my flap makes'such inaccuracies imperceptible to'an observer.

The contrast between the covering material and the breast flap, both visible 'on the'breast of the heel, appeals to the purchaser of "a shoe, and

, therefore increases the demand for this type of shoe.

The embossing described herein may be used with great advantage to impart a distinct'decorative effect to'a' shoe not known heretofore, As the boss 25 may be interchangeable, a'wide variety of decorations is made possible, 'in'cludingfor'example, the initials of the manufacturer, "or the prospective customer,-e'tc.

In Fig. 6 of the drawings there is shown a cutting device 3|, which is similar to the cutting device shown in Figs. 2 and 3, except that the cutting edge 32 is shaped to form a saw-tooth or serrated edge on the heel breast flap. The cutter is provided with a boss 33 corresponding to the boss 25 of Figs. 2 and 3, for forming an embossed design in the body portion of the breast flap. The breast flap produced by the cutting device of Fig. 6 is illustrated in Fig. 7, being shown cemented in position on the heel I2 of a shoe. It will be seen that the serrated edge 34 of the heel breast flap is spaced inwardly from the corner of the heel, so that portions of the heel covering material l6 are visible on the breast of the heel on each side of the heel breast flap. Moreover the flap has an embossed design 35 produced by the boss 33 of the cutting device shown in Fig. 6.

In Figs. 8 and 9 there is shown a further embodiment of my invention, in which a cutting device M is provided with a cuttin edge 42 for trimming and simultaneously ornamenting a heel breast flap by providing a decorative contour, and is further provided with a cutting edge or cutting edges 43 for forming a cutout design in the body portion of the breast flap. The breast flap produced by the cutting device'of Figs. 8 and 9 is illustrated in Fig. 10, being shown in position on the heel I2 of a shoe. It will be een that the breast flap l3 has scalloped or ornamental side edges 44 which are spaced inwardly from the side edges of the breast of the heel, so that portions of the heel coverin material [6 are visible on the breast of the heel on each side of the breast flap l3. Moreover the heel covering material I6 is also visible through the cutout design 45formed by the cutting edge 43 of the cutting device shown in Figs. 8 and 9. With the particular cutout design shown in Fig. 10, it is desirable for the covering material 16 to cover the entire breast portion of the heel, or at least the portion visible through the cutout in the breast fiap. Alternatively, the breast of the heel can be enameled or otherwise finished, or a separate piece of material can be provided beneath the cutout design.

It will be understood that the cutout design or ornamentation in the heel breast flap, like the embossed design illustrated in Fig. 7, may be of any desired shape or configuration. Alternative designs are illustrated in Fig. 11, where the ornamental edge of the breast fla is indicated by the reference numeral 46 and a plurality of separate cutouts forming a design in the body portion of the breast flap are shown at 41. It will be understood that the covering material l6 of the heel will be visible through these cutout portions, thereby providing a decorative effect in addition to that produced by the ornamental contour of the breast flap. In the embodiment shown in Figs. and 11, as well as in those of Figs. 4 and l, the entire ornamentation of the heel breast flap is obtained in the single operation by which the flap is trimmed. Whereas the ornamentation of a shoe ordinarily involves additional manufacturing costs, the ornamental effect achieved by the present invention, actually results in decreased cost, since unskilled labor can be employed in carrying out the operations.

In the cutting device in accordancewith my invention, the spacebetween the cutting edges is preferably substantially filled with soft resilient material, such as sponge rubber, as indicated at 50 in Figs. 2, 3, 6, 8 and 9. The lower surface of the resilient material 50 is shown as being substantially flush with the cutting edges. This construction not nly prevents clogging of the cutting device, but also assures that the heel breast flap blank is held smooth and firm during the trimming operation. Accuracy is thus assured in forming the ornamental contour of the heel flap and in providing the embossed cutout or other design in the body portion of the flap.

I do not limit myself to the particular details of the method and means set forth in the foregoing specification and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, as the same refer to and set forth only certain embodiments of the invention, and it is obvious that the same may be modified within the scope of the appended claims without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. A cutting device for forming a heel breast flap of a shoe, which comprises means for supporting a shoe having a heel breast flap blank attached thereto, and comprising a cutter coacting therewith comprising a cutter edge for trimming the outer edge of said breast flap to ornamental contour, and means for simultaneously forming a design in the body portion of said flap.

2. A cutting device for forming a heel breast flap of a shoe, which comprises means for supporting a heel breast flap blank permanently attached to a shoe, and a cutter coacting therewith and comprising cutting edges for trimming the outer edge of said breast flap to ornamental contour, and simultaneously forming a decorative cutout design in the body portion of said flap.

3. A cutting device for forming the heel breast flap of a heel, which comprises means for sup porting a heel breast flap blank permanently attached to a shoe, a cutter coacting therewith and having cutting edges for trimming the outer edge of said breast flap to ornamental contour, and coacting die members carried by said cutter and said support and operative to form an embossed design in said heel breast flap simultaneousli with said trimming operation.

4. A cutting device for forming the breast flap of a heel, said flap being formed to provide a space between its contour and the contour of the breast of said heel when affixed thereto, comprising a plate adapted to support said flap having a recess and a cutter coactive therewith comprising a cutting edge and a boss adapted simultaneously to trim said flap and emboss a pattern into it by engaging a portion of said flap between said boss and said recess.

5. A cutting device for forming a heel breast flap of a shoe, comprising a plate adapted to support said breast flap, and a cutter coacting therewith, comprising a cutter edge for trimming the outer edge of said breast flap to predetermined contour, and a cutting edge for simultaneously formin a cutout ornamentation in said breast flap.

LOUIS SABO. 

